Julia Morgans' Influence at Asilomar
Between the years of 1913 and 1928, Julia Morgan designed and built at least sixteen structures at the Asilomar Conference Grounds, making Asilomar the largest collection of Julia Morgan buildings in one location. Today, eleven of those buildings are still standing as monuments to the talents of Morgan, and to the Arts & Crafts architectural style so popular 75 years ago that is now enjoying a resurgence of popularity in the 21st century.
The following is some brief background information on Asilomar's Morgan-designed buildings:
Administration Building (1913). Asilomar's first structure, it was originally called the Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall, named for the woman who worked to secure the original 30 acres of land for Asilomar, and for all of the furnishings she provided for the first buildings on the grounds. The building is made of redwood and concrete with granite stones covering the concrete supports and foundation. The half-log cladding was originally covered with bark, and a concrete terrace was featured on the west side. The interior features a stone fireplace and a King Post Truss ceiling. The bell tower where the meal bells rings today, was built in 1917. The building first served as a gathering place for YWCA women and Girl Reserves, and also housed the administrative offices for the YWCA leaders, the post office, and the bookstore. Today, the Administration Building contains the Executive Offices, the Front Desk, and the Park Store, in addition to its original function as a gathering place for guests and new arrivals.
Entrance Gates (1913). These original stone pillars still stand at the main entrance to the Asilomar Conference Grounds at Asilomar Boulevard and Sinex Avenue.
Tenthouses (1913). These structures, which were primarily constructed with wood foundations and canvas walls, were originally used as guest housing from 1913 to 1935. In 1935, they were remodeled, their canvas walls replaced with wood, and they became known as Longhouses. In 1966, three of the remaining Longhouses were replaced with the Longviews designed by John C. Warnecke.
Engineer's Cottage (1913). This small building was originally designed as the Engineering Cottage. In later years it became the Caretaker’s Cottage, and today, it houses the State Fire Academy offices. In 1961, when the Crocker Dining Hall was closed for remodeling for five months, this little building became known as the “Bread Box and Salad Bowl,” and over 70,000 meals were prepared in the cottages kitchen.
Grace H. Dodge Chapel (1915). Religion was important to the YWCA founders, and today Chapel represents a non-denominational gathering place. It is constructed of stone, concrete and redwood, and is fully integrated into the landscape. The granite stone chimney is original; the flagstone and brick chimney dates from about 1950 and functions as camouflage for utility pipes. Chapel features a panoramic window on the west side for the stage backdrop, and the surrounding windows provide natural light at all times of the day. Chapel looks out west through the pines to the spectacular Asilomar dunes. Early photographs reveal the eight-light French doors to be original. The Chapel floor was built at a slant to create a sense of sitting on the side of a sand dune. King Post Trusses support the ceiling and enhance the spaciousness of the building. The folding partitions allow the building to serve multiple uses by closing off areas. A library was originally set up in the section where the fireplace is located, and classrooms were along the east and south walls. Morgan adorned the interior entablature with the inscription from the Bible and with embellishments of sea shells. Chapel was financed from profit monies collected by the YWCA's food and beverage concessions at the Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. It is dedicated to Grace Hoadley Dodge, the first president of the National YWCA. Chapel seats 400.
Crocker Dining Hall (1918). In the earliest days of Asilomar, a canvas circus tent served as the dining hall. The Mary A. Crocker Dining Hall was built with monies donated by the Crocker family in honor of Mary Ann Deming Crocker, a philanthropist devoted to a multitude of charitable works, and the wife of Charles Crocker, one of the “Big Four” railroad magnates involved in creating the Southern Pacific Railroad. As with other Morgan-designed buildings, the Arts & Crafts style is exemplified in the large hall with its two massive rubblestone fireplaces, untreated redwood King Post Trusses, and plain concrete walls. In December of 1960, the Monterey County Health Department shut down Crocker’s old kitchen and the dining hall for various violations. In 1961, architect John C. Warnecke remodeled Crocker by removing the old kitchen and side rooms and designing two new dining areas, Woodlands and Seascape. He raised the dining hall floor 27” above the original to provide a single floor level connection to the two new dining areas. The main dining room seats 480, Woodlands seats 180, and Seascape seats 160.
Stuck-Up Inn (1918). Originally built as staff quarters for the young college women who spent their summers working at Asilomar, Morgan designed Hilltop to be constructed economically and for practical use, favoring a Mediterranean design with rooms surrounding a courtyard, and natural light filling the hallways. She placed Hilltop on the outskirts of the main camp area, and built it from redwood shingle siding and casement windows, with exposed rafters projecting from under the eaves. The living room's main features are its exposed rough log beams, a brick chimney, recessed window seating, and two double-door bookcases. The redwood board and batten walls were removed from the guest rooms and halls during the building's rehabilitation in 1992. From 1918 to 1935, the building was affectionately known as Stuck-up Inn, and the story of the Stuck-ups is told through the framed pictures and verses hanging in the hallways of Hilltop. The rooms in Hilltop are furnished with replicas of iron beds, wicker chairs, and wood dressers. The living room is a meeting facility that seats 45.
Viewpoint (1918). Originally known as Health Cottage, Viewpoint was designed to house the nursing staff and the Red Cross lifeguard for the swimming pool, and as a small infirmary for staff and guests. In the 1960s, meeting rooms on each end were added, and up until 1998 it housed the Park Store in the original center area. Today, the western half houses the conference center offices, and there is one meeting room in the eastern end of the building which seats 50.
The Lodge (1918). Formerly called Visitor's Lodge, this Morgan design was built in a hotel style to accommodate the visiting YWCA leaders, the summer administrative staff, and the instructors. The living room had a commanding view of the entire facility in the early days. Like other Morgan creations at Asilomar, it is built of concrete, stone, and redwood. The windows, fireplace, staircase, and redwood board and batten walls provide a decorative interior that is in touch with nature. To this day, the sleeping rooms are still decorated with iron beds, redwood closets and furniture, and curtains stenciled with a pine cone motif. The Lodge has a meeting capacity of 40 people.
Guest Inn (1918). This Asilomar building, originally located in North Woods where Oak Knoll and Manzanita stand today, was torn down in 1968. Today, there is another building that is also called Guest Inn. However, it is not a Julia Morgan design. It is located between East Woods and Fireside, and was once owned by John Steinbeck’s sister, Esther Steinbeck Rodgers. The story goes that Esther let John stay in the house in February and March of 1941, and that he may have written a portion of the Sea of Cortez while there.
Class Hall (1919). Originally called Scripps' Class Hall, this building was originally located between Hilltop and Merrill. It burned down in 1951.
Pirates' Den (1921). Like Hilltop, Tide Inn was designed as staff housing for the young men who worked at Asilomar up until 1935. It became known as the Pirate's Den, from the men's nickname, “Pie Rats.” Their story is told through the framed pictures and verse in the main hallway. Economy and practicality were behind the design, and the original building was one story. Casement windows allow for plenty of light, there are recessed window seats, and a fireplace. The living room ceiling offered a design departure for Morgan, as she experimented with the varied angles and pitches of the beautiful Chinese architectural form of a roof within a roof that helped to increase the proportions of the otherwise small room. In the 1950s, the lower sleeping rooms were added. In 1992, Tide Inn was rehabilitated and updated, but the furnishings have kept to the period of the 1920s with iron frame beds and wooden dressers.
Scripps (1927). Originally called Scripps Lodge Annex, it was built in a style complementary to The Lodge. It was dedicated to Ellen Browning Scripps, a champion of the YWCA's efforts and women's education, and was used similarly to The Lodge as a facility for YWCA leaders and staff, as well as for conference guests. The fireplace and glass walls are softened by curved brackets. The attached patio dining area was originally used as a separate dining area, but today it is a meeting room that seats 75.
Swimming Pool & Tennis Courts (1927). The YWCA was always looking for recreational activities in which young women could engage while attending conferences and summer camp. A swimming pool and tennis courts were suggested by Mrs. Fleishhacker, a prominent supporter of the San Francisco YWCA. She donated the $7,500 necessary to build the pool and tennis courts. The pool was originally filled with saltwater from the ocean each morning, and drained each night. In 1951, the pool was converted to fresh water, and in the 1960s it was heated. The tennis courts were originally clay courts, refinished in concrete in 1949. In 1965, the courts were demolished. They were originally located where the housekeeping building currently stands.
Director's Cottage (1928). Originally designed by Julia Morgan and built in 1919 as the Director's Cottage, its first occupant was Asilomar’s YWCA manager, Edith Stanton. It was donated by Frances M. Wright in memory of Dr. Anna M. Angell. Today, Pinecrest is used as guest lodging.
Merrill Hall (1928). This was the last structure to be built during a surge of postwar building at Asilomar. It was also the last building designed by Julia Morgan at Asilomar. Built to meet the increased needs of the YWCA for their leadership conferences, it was dedicated to Mary Sroufe Merrill, the director of the San Francisco YWCA and Asilomar's first director (1913-24). It was originally designed to seat 1,000 people (today it seats 650), and its function has remained consistent since its construction -- auditorium space for workshops and assembly use. The west side of Merrill indicates a distinctive departure from Morgan's other buildings in that its exterior is faced with flagstone, rather than the rubblestone used in Chapel and the Administration Building. It is a well-lit building with eight-light French doors, wood floors, and a fireplace with a fossil imprinted on its center keystone. The interior also features arch trusses and an upper clerestory with pointed-arch style windows that echo the arch forms.
